The back story
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The back story
Jaffna and the North, the back story
The heart of Sri Lankan Tamil culture: Hindu temples, a Dutch fort, a beloved library, fiery crab curry and islands with wild ponies.
Town guide · the Tamil north
Jaffna & the North: Our Favourites
The cultural heart of the Sri Lankan Tamils: Nallur temple, the Dutch fort, the rebuilt library, Jaffna crab curry and the islands of Delft and Nainativu.
What's onThis week in Sri Lanka
What to see
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The great temple of the north
Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil
The most important Hindu temple in Jaffna, dedicated to Murugan, with a golden gopuram and a festival lasting more than three weeks.
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Star-shaped fortress
Jaffna Fort
A star-shaped fort by the lagoon, begun by the Portuguese and rebuilt by the Dutch, now restored.
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Rebuilt and reopened
Jaffna Public Library
The white library in the centre of Jaffna, badly damaged by fire in 1981 and rebuilt, reopening in the early 2000s.
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Wild ponies
Delft island
A flat, windswept island west of Jaffna, with wild ponies, coral-stone walls, a giant baobab and Dutch fort ruins.
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Temple island
Nainativu
A small island with the Nagapooshani Amman Kovil and the Nagadeepa Buddhist shrine, both important pilgrimage sites.
Where to eat
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Home cooking
Ammachchi food centres
Traditional food centres in the north where local women cook and sell Jaffna-style vegetarian dishes.
Where to stay
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Rooftop bar
Jetwing Jaffna
A modern hotel in the centre of Jaffna, with a restaurant influenced by South Indian cooking and a rooftop bar.
Getting there
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Check the timetable
Yal Devi train to Jaffna
The train from Colombo Fort to Jaffna and Kankesanthurai, which resumed in May 2026.
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By car
The A9 road and Vavuniya
The main road to the north, from Kandy and Dambulla through Vavuniya to Jaffna.
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Check before you go
Travel advice for the north
Practical safety guidance for the north, based on official UK travel advice.
Share your Jaffna & the North tips
Been there? Share your experience and tips with other visitors.
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